How to Clean your Airbrush?
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When it comes to cleaning an airbrush , your cleaning kit is your most important asset.
So much so that the cleaning equipment you choose from your toolbox can either make airbrush cleaning a breeze or an absolute nightmare.
It is very important that you use good cleaning equipment to avoid damaging the airbrush components, and to protect your health and that of those nearby.
It is strongly advised to have and use cleaning pots if you are concerned about the health of yourself and those around you when cleaning an airbrush .
Clean your airbrush with the cleaning pot
An airbrush cleaning jar is a small jar with a lid that has an inlet side and an outlet side. The inlet side is for the airbrush gun while the outlet side is fitted with an airbrush filter and left open for airflow to escape.
The airbrush cleaning pot allows you to rinse your airbrush easily without exposing yourself to the atomized solution that drips from the airbrush. The main purpose of the cleaning pot is to contain any sprayed paint inside the pot by filtering it from the air through the filter on the outlet side of the lid.
In other words, the airbrush cleaning pot protects you and others in the vicinity from inhaling the non-food colorant while rinsing the airbrush . But that's assuming the cleaning pot is used correctly.
How does an airbrush cleaning pot work?
An airbrush cleaning pot works by containing all the sprayed paint inside the pot and filtering the air coming out through the filter on the outlet side of the lid.
The cleaning pot gives you a confined place to run any cleaning solution through the airbrush without exposing yourself to harmful vapor particles.
The time when you are most at risk (from a health perspective) when airbrushing with non-food colorants, is when you spray large amounts of liquids through the airbrush, be it a cleaning solution or the last remaining paint in your airbrush.
But by using a cleaning jar, you greatly reduce the risk to your health, because the cleaning jar will contain the solvents in the jar rather than letting them build up in your lungs.
Although the airbrush cleaning pot is very simple in terms of operation. It can have a big impact on your overall cleaning experience.
Can you clean your airbrush with water?
There are a multitude of different airbrush cleaners on the market today. And many of them can be quite expensive. But what if you could just use water to clean your airbrush?
Water is not always the best airbrush cleaning solution, simply because it is not as solvent as some of the options available.
In some cases depending on the colorant sprayed by the airbrush, water alone can be used to clean an airbrush . But only for water-based colorants such as food coloring, acrylics, inks, makeup and so on. However, water becomes a less effective cleaning solution once the dye has dried (in most cases).
Let's take a look at which dyes can be cleaned using just water and which cannot.
Anything water-based can be cleaned using just water. Assuming you clean your device before the paint dries in the airbrush. At this point, you'll probably need something more aggressive for cleaning, like a store-bought airbrush cleaner or a homemade airbrush remover recipe.
List of common airbrush spray colorants that do not clean up with water.
- Urethane
- Lacquers
- Varnish
Anything oil or solvent based will strongly resist water even assuming the substrate is still wet. If the paint is dry, the water will be of no use to you for cleaning. It will only smear the paint elsewhere doing more damage.
In most cases, it is best to use the thinner used in the paint for cleanup. Assuming you are using oil based or solvent based paints.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Using Water for Airbrush Cleaning
It is recommended to use water to clean your airbrush only if you are working with water based colorants.
Or, if you are out of airbrush cleaner.
Otherwise, water alone is not as strong as many other cleaning agents available today.
However, if you're looking to save money on cleaners, because, let's face it, these products go down the drain. We suggest you take a look at some of our favorite homemade airbrush cleaning solutions.
The ingredients are very cheap and easily accessible in any supermarket.
Homemade nail polish remover recipe :
- 4 cups distilled water
- 1 cup of pure alcohol 99% or 91%
- 1 cup all-purpose household cleaner
- 5 drops of glycerin
If you don't have glycerin then the recipe is still effective.
Please note that this formula for creating your own homemade airbrush cleaner thinner is intended for use with water-based acrylic paints, inks, etc. When working with solvent-based paints, you will need a different subset of solvents for reducing and cleaning these paints.
These are the main ingredients that airbrush enthusiasts regularly use to mix and create their own homemade airbrush cleaner .
There are other homemade cleaner recipes but the other recipes include ingredients that are known to be harmful to an airbrush and can cause long term damage.
Can alcohol be used to clean an airbrush?
When it comes to cleaning an airbrush , many products can be used, at least when it comes to water-based paints. Household alcohol is one of those products that many wonder if they can use to clean their airbrushes.
Household alcohol is often used to thin the paint, as well as for cleaning. So it can be used to clean an airbrush, but only to clean water-based paints. Rubbing alcohol does not dry out in phase with solvent-based paints.
Rubbing alcohol is used to perform a multitude of different tasks. Specifically for diluting and cleaning water-based paints. You generally don't need the strength of 100% pure alcohol.
Household alcohol like white spirit is usually diluted with water when used for cleaning or thinning purposes. It is generally suggested to use less than 50% household alcohol in your recipe to mix with the rest of distilled water.
Do not leave your airbrush parts immersed in 100% pure alcohol for a long time. Avoid leaving your airbrush gun submerged in your mixture for too long. He may do some damage.
In order to avoid any possible risk of damaging your airbrush, we suggest that you take a few extra seconds to spray pure water through your airbrush as the last step in rinsing your device. This will remove most of the alcohol residue.
Is Cleaning the Airbrush with Alcohol dangerous?
It is not very common to see rubbing alcohol damage an airbrush. But that doesn't mean he won't. It is best to avoid exposing your airbrush to high percentages of alcohol for long periods of time.
Household alcohol can be used to aid in the cleaning process of an airbrush. But it's important to note that it's only ideal for water-based paints, as solvent-based paints tend to be much tougher when dried.
Can you clean your airbrush with acetone?
Acetone is a cleaning agent that is not recommended for airbrushes, simply because it is very aggressive.
Using acetone to clean an airbrush will certainly get it clean, but it can also damage airbrush components.
Cleaning the airbrush with acetone can cause severe damage to seals and other plastic or rubber components if these items are not removed before cleaning.
Also, there is no guarantee that acetone will not react with other airbrush components.
Acetone is a powerful product, which does amazing things when poured on different assortments of materials. So be very careful if you intend to use acetone to clean your airbrush.
Reserve the use of acetone to clean your airbrush if you're dealing with excessively stubborn paint. But that assumes the airbrush has been completely disassembled before cleaning, and every airbrush seal has been removed. As well as all the various plastic or rubber components.
And of course never soak your airbrush entirely in acetone. Just a little swipe, if needed.
It is true that acetone can be an excellent cleaning agent for a multitude of different projects. But when it comes to using its strength on an airbrush, it becomes debatable.
Quite simply because an airbrush is made up of a multitude of different materials. Many of them will be destroyed on contact with acetone. Therefore we do not recommend cleaning an airbrush with acetone , simply because it is unclear what it can do to different parts of the airbrush.
The strength of acetone can be a necessary evil when dealing with extremely stubborn paints and other colorants.
But even then, we still suggest looking for another cleaning agent. Specifically, a product that doesn't pose as much of a risk to your airbrush as acetone.
If you must use it, remove every rubber or Teflon gasket, and any other plastic or rubber components. But even then, acetone is a questionable bet.
Is it possible to Clean your Airbrush with White Spirit?
Solvent-based paints and other dyes are fairly straightforward when it comes to cleaning solutions. In most cases, you can use the same product you used to thin the paint as you used to clean it.
However, you have a few general options when using solvent-based colorants, such as White Spirit or Turpentine.
But be careful using solvents, as they can be very harsh on airbrush seals and O-rings. Teflon gaskets and O-rings are generally solvent resistant, but rubber gaskets are not.
Solvents should be used in a well-ventilated area and with appropriate respiratory equipment for use without danger to your health.
How to Clean the Airbrush between each Color?
When it comes to airbrushing, using multiple colors is the way to elevate an artwork! But changing colors can be a hassle when it comes to using an airbrush.
That's why we're going to dive into the details of the process of changing colors with an airbrush, and the steps needed to do it correctly and quickly.
Changing colors using an airbrush can be a chore to do as you usually need to clean the airbrush before applying a new color. In other cases, the previous color will mix with the new color, creating an unintended color change.
In other words, when it comes to changing colors, it's more about cleaning and prepping the airbrush before moving on to the next color than just changing colors.
Now, the general steps for cleaning an airbrush for the purpose of changing colors are somewhat similar between the different paint feed options (gravity feed, side feed, and siphon feed) available in today's market.
However, they have their subtle differences and we'll explain how.
Generalized color change steps:
Below is a general list of steps for cleaning an airbrush between two colors .
- Remove leftover paint
- Apply cleaning solution
- Shake the dried paint
- Pour the dirty cleaner into the paint can (don't spray it through)
- Apply a new cleaning solution
- Spray cleaning solution until clear
- Remove excess cleaning solution
- Spray airbrush until dry
- Add new color
Gravity airbrush cleaning
Since gravity feed and side feed airbrushes are both so similar, they are cleaned between color changes the same way. The only differences are in how you choose to hold each airbrush while you clean them.
Whether you use a gravity airbrush or a side feed airbrush, the following cleaning procedure will be the same.
The goal is to clean the paint cup and clean the inside of the airbrush so that they are free of any paint present inside the airbrush. Cleanup doesn't have to be perfect, as long as the previous color no longer leaks out of the airbrush when swiping with airbrush cleaner .
There is no need to disassemble the airbrush to clean it between two colors. You simply rinse the internals by spraying cleaner inside.
Step 1: Drain excess paint
Begin the color change process by simply emptying the excess paint remaining in the cup. Finally, if you haven't used it all.
If you have a significant amount of paint left, pour it back into your paint bucket for later use (so you don't waste paint).
Step 2: Clean the paint can
Pour a small amount of airbrush cleaner into the paint can, and agitate the paint with a spare brush (or similar tool). The goal is to break up the dry paint that coats the walls of the paint can.
Do not spray the dirty cleaning solution through the airbrush, as this may cause the airbrush to clog due to large chunks of paint floating in the cleaning solution after shaking.
Instead, empty the dirty cleaning solution into a disposable container.
Wipe off any leftover paint in the cup. Repeat step 2 until the cup is clean.
Step 3: Rinse the internal parts of the airbrush
Pour another amount of airbrush cleaner into the paint cup, this time spraying it through the airbrush. The purpose is to clean the internal parts of the airbrush .
Occasionally rinse the airbrush for thorough cleaning.
Back-flushing an airbrush simply means covering the nozzle to force air back into the paint chamber. You'll know it's working if you see bubbles rising inside the paint cup. Backwashing helps loosen any stubborn paint inside the airbrush.
Repeat the process until you see no more color coming out of the airbrush. It should be the same color as the airbrush cleaner you are using (usually clear).
Tip: Spray your cleaning solution through some sort of filter. For example, an airbrush cleaning pot . This will prevent the airbrush cleaner from entering the air and ultimately your lungs.
Step 4: Dry the internal parts of the airbrush
Pour off excess cleaning solution once you have a clean stream. Then spray the airbrush until the inside of the brush is dry.
Keep spraying until you no longer see cleaner coming out of the airbrush. What you're looking for is smooth airflow without cleaners .
Step 5: Apply the next color
You are now ready for your next color!
After pouring the next color into the paint bucket, test it out on a piece of fabric before applying it to your final piece. This will prevent any paint stains or similar mishaps.
When it comes to changing colors in an airbrush , there are steps to follow in order to ensure correct color change without the risk of color mixing.
However, there are cases where color morphing (mixing) is desired in order to achieve a specific pattern. It's quite common for some to simply pour the next color into the gun cup, skipping the cleaning process and mixing the new color with the previous one when trying to achieve a consistent gradient.
This can help create more refined gradients and so on, just blending the colors to create mid tones in the gradient.
But this tactic only works well if you use the right colors.
For example, if you are trying to create a smooth blend from red to yellow. Well, at some point in this mix, you're going to see orange.
The best way to do this is to not clean your airbrush before changing colors. Instead, start by applying yellow to the piece, then skip the cleaning process and apply your red in the color bucket and mix it. This will give you a nice orange color (depending on the amount of each paint).
Once you've painted your orange, simply begin to transition to red by applying more red into the mixture. You'll end up with a full red and a smooth, consistent gradient.
As you can see in the example, not cleaning your color bucket before applying the next color can be productive, and give your room a more natural and aesthetic look.
Overall, cleaning an airbrush between color changes is fairly simple and requires minimal effort. As long as you clean the paint cup and rinse the internal parts of the airbrush, you can move on to the next color.
For a more complete cleaning of your airbrush let's see together how to disassemble the spare parts of the airbrush without damaging it and how to clean them properly.
Food Airbrush Maintenance
The paint flows from the paint reservoir into the airbrush, around the tip of the needle and out the airbrush head. These areas should be kept clean for optimum airbrush performance.
Clean your airbrush regularly and before the paint dries.
Perform a quick paint rinse (Step 1) between color changes. If you are finishing a painting session, perform Steps 1-2. Perform Steps 3-8 if your airbrush is clogged, spraying unevenly, or to prevent paint buildup.
1. Cleaning at the end of the session
For gravity feed airbrushes :
1a. Remove the lid from the cup and empty the excess paint inside the cup.
1b. Alternate using the wash brush with the airbrush cleaner (or homemade cleaner) and wipe down the cup.
1 C. Spray cleaner or warm water into airbrush until clear. Spray in a pot of cleaning kit or in a paper towel.
For siphon feed airbrushes :
1a. Remove the bottle of paint from the bottom of the airbrush.
1b. Fill a clean bottle and attach it to the airbrush.
1 C. Spray the cleaner or warm water into the airbrush until the spray is clear. Spray in a pot of cleaning kit or in a paper towel.
For a quick paint cleanup, use our Aero Cake Cleaning Kit .
Continue airbrushing with a new color. If you are completing an airbrush session, proceed to step 2.
2. Needle cleaning
Unplug the airbrush from the air source.
2a. Unscrew and remove the rear handle. Place the handle on a secure surface, the raised edge of which prevents the parts from rolling.
2b. Loosen the needle clamp nut by hand.
2c. Remove the needle. The needles are extremely sharp and delicate. Be careful not to drop or damage your needle while cleaning.
2d. Clean the needle with a small amount of airbrush cleaner, wiping it only toward the tip of the needle. Wipe the needle only in the direction from back to front so as not to hurt yourself.
If your airbrush is clogged, spraying unevenly, or to prevent paint buildup:
Leave the airbrush disassembled. Place the needle on a safe surface and proceed to steps 3-8.
If you end an airbrush session:
Gently push the needle back into place. The needle is fully in place when it comes to a complete stop. Tighten the needle clamp nut.
Reassemble the airbrush and connect your air source. To make sure the needle is in place, fill the color cup or bottle with water and push the main lever down to check for air.
If water comes out, the needle is not fully in place. Water should only spray when you pull the trigger (turn the fluid adjustment knob if the airbrush is single action).
Tighten the needle clamp nut if no water comes out. If unit is not working properly, check assembly and follow all cleaning instructions.
3. Remove nozzle from gun
To uncover the nozzle (4), unscrew the needle cap (1) and the nozzle cap (2) by hand. For Iwata Eclipse airbrushes, remove the nozzle cap (3) using the nozzle cap wrench (included with the airbrush).
For airbrushes with compression nozzle:
3a. The nozzle is compression fitted into the body of the airbrush. To remove, press against nozzle body at an angle. Check the inside of the nozzle head cap if the nozzle appears to be missing. Use the blunt end of the needle to pull it out.
For airbrushes with a threaded nozzle:
3a. Place the wrench on the flat sides of the threaded nozzle base and turn left to unscrew.
4. Cleaning the nozzle and cap
4a. To remove paint, soak your nozzle, needle cap, nozzle head cap (if compression nozzle) and nozzle cap in airbrush cleaner (or solvent) for up to 10 minutes .
Never dip your entire airbrush in liquid. Never store your airbrush with spray fluid or cleaning products in the gun cup.
4b. Using a small cleaning brush dipped in airbrush cleaner, scrub your nozzle, needle cap, nozzle head cap (if compression nozzle) and nozzle cap.
5. Cleaning the paint duct
5a. Dip a very small cleaning brush or pipe cleaner into a small cup.
5b. For gravity feed airbrushes, push the cleaning brush down into the color cup paint passage, toward the front of the airbrush.
For bottom-feed airbrushes, push the cotton swab or cleaning brush up into the bottle seal, deep toward the front of the airbrush. Rub back and forth, using back and forth motions.
Repeat this process until there are no more paint debris on the brush or pipe cleaner .
5c. Use the cleaning brush or cotton swab dipped in the Aero Cake cleaning kit to clean the paint passage in the front of the airbrush. Clean until there is no more paint debris on the brush or cotton swab.
6. Check loose parts for damage and paint debris.
- Check your nozzle for cracks or dents
- Check if it is deformed
- Check if the needle is bent
- Check for paint debris in airbrush paint passages
If any parts are damaged, you will need to order that specific part. If you airbrush often, you may want to have an extra needle and nozzle as these parts can be damaged easily.
7. Clean the exterior of the airbrush
Clean the outside of your airbrush with a small amount of nail polish remover. Use a pipe cleaner dipped in airbrush cleaner to clean tight areas where paint can build up.
8. Reassemble and lubricate the airbrush
For airbrushes with a threaded nozzle:
8a. Lightly dab thread sealant on two opposite sides of the nozzle threads. Be careful not to let the sealant get inside the nozzle.
8b. Screw the nozzle back onto the airbrush with the nozzle wrench. Make sure the nozzle is tight. Do not overtighten.
8c. Lightly dab thread sealant on the 4 opposite sides of the nozzle cap threads, located on the airbrush body. Take care that the sealant does not get inside the airbrush head. Screw the nozzle cap and the needle cap back on by hand.
For airbrushes with compression nozzle:
8a. Lightly dab thread sealant on 4 opposite sides of the head cap threads, located on the airbrush body. Keep sealant away from air and paint passages.
"The nozzle cap compresses the nozzle onto the airbrush. Make sure the nozzle head cap is tight. Do not overtighten."
8b. Place the nozzle into the base of the airbrush head. Screw the head cap on and gently tighten it with the head cap wrench. Do not overtighten.
8c. Lightly dab thread sealant on the 4 opposite sides of the nozzle cap threads, located on the airbrush head cap. Take care that the sealant does not get inside the airbrush head. Screw the nozzle cap and the needle cap back on by hand.
Lubricant is not needed every time you clean your airbrush.
If your main lever is slow to rise, lubricate the air valve o-ring: Make sure the handle and needle are still removed from the airbrush.
Press the main lever and pull back, apply a single drop to the base of the main lever rod.
If your main lever does not move smoothly back and forth, lubricate the needle packing:
Make sure the handle and needle are always removed from the airbrush.
Place a single drop of lubricant where the needle taper begins and distribute it evenly around the tapered edge.
8d. With the main lever depressed, carefully reinsert the needle so as not to damage the pointed end. The needle is fully in place when it comes to a complete stop. Do not use excessive force.
8th. Tighten the needle clamp nut by hand to hold the needle in place. Do not overtighten.
8f. Screw the handle back onto the airbrush.
Once reassembled, connect your air source, fill the color cup or bottle with water and push the main lever down only to test the air.
If water comes out, the needle is not fully in place. Water should only squirt when you pull the main lever back (turn the fluid adjustment knob if using a single action airbrush).
Tighten the needle clamp nut if no water comes out. If unit is not working properly, check assembly and follow all cleaning instructions.
Cleaning an airbrush is probably one of the most important parts of keeping an airbrush in good working order. But knowing when and how often to clean your airbrush can be tricky.
Especially if you are new to airbrushing.
How often should an airbrush be cleaned?
This of course depends on your personal use, but in simple terms:
You should do a " simple cleaning " of your airbrush after each session (sometimes during), and a " deep cleaning " at the end of each week (assuming you spray every day), or once the airbrush begins to become unresponsive due to paint buildup inside.
However, if you're not going to be using your airbrush for several days, a thorough cleaning is probably in order. Simply because you don't want to leave paint residue in the airbrush for a long time. In particular paints such as urethanes, enamels, lacquers, etc.
However, other factors are likely to influence how often you clean your airbrush.
When to do a simple cleaning?
A "simple clean up" is achieved by simply rinsing the airbrush with paint thinner or airbrush cleaner. It does not take much time and does not require disassembling the airbrush (depends on your airbrush).
However, note that a "simple cleaning" is not likely to remove all paint residue from the airbrush, as a "deep cleaning" will (assuming it's done right).
Now you're probably thinking, "So why don't I do a deep clean every time I clean my airbrush?"
A "deep cleaning" requires the complete (or almost complete) disassembly of the airbrush. If you do this within the intervals specified for "simple cleaning", you will spend more time taking your airbrush apart to clean it than using it.
Additionally, disassembling an airbrush to this point can often damage or wear out components, due to the stress placed on the parts each time you tighten and loosen each individual part. Not to mention that your gaskets will wear out quickly if you deep clean too often.
It's true that there will be times when you need to deep clean often, but those times will be clarified later when we talk about "deep cleaning".
Most of the time, simple cleaning should be done at specific times, such as:
- At the end of an airbrush session
- When changing color
- If the airbrush begins to become clogged and/or becomes unresponsive
At the end of each session:
For most people, it is very important to do a simple cleaning at the end of each airbrushing session. This will rinse the paint out of the paint bucket, as well as the internal parts of the airbrush, so you'll be ready the next time you use the airbrush.
When changing color:
Of course, no one paints with the same color. So when you change colors, you need to do a simple cleaning to prepare the airbrush for the next color, otherwise you may end up with color contamination (colors mixing unintentionally).
Sometimes during a session:
During your airbrushing session, it's common to see layers of semi-dry paint start to build up inside the airbrush cup .
This is because the paint dries on the sides of the bucket when exposed to the air. Each time you add paint to the pot, a new layer of paint is formed as the level of paint inside the pot begins to drop.
These layers can build up and begin to cause problems for the airbrush as the thicker (semi-dry) paint begins to work its way inside the airbrush.
Clogging is a common symptom of heavy paint building up inside the airbrush from sitting in the airbrush too long.
In general, a simple cleaning is enough to remove paint buildup. However, if you continue to have problems with the airbrush after a simple cleaning, you may need to do a deep cleaning.
It is true that it depends on the type of paint you use (this often happens with water-based paints).
When to do a deep cleaning?
Now, a "deep clean" is basically a "simple clean", but we're going to take the cleaning process much further. Which usually requires a complete (or nearly complete) disassembly of the airbrush in order to access every nook and cranny.
Determining the optimal time to deep clean an airbrush isn't as simple as saying, "it should be done at the third of the session and at the end of the session". Rather, thorough cleaning depends on several different factors.
Deep cleaning intervals will depend on the following :
Assuming you use your airbrush daily you can expect one deep cleaning per week. However, if your airbrush is acting up and starting to become unresponsive or clogged, you may need to do a deep cleaning sooner.
Some deep cleaning factors to consider :
- The type of paint you use
- The frequency of use of the airbrush
- If problems start to occur that a "simple cleaning" cannot solve (major obstructions).
- The type of paint you use
- The type of paint you choose to use for airbrushing will have some impact on how often you will want/need to do a "deep clean".
But when using water based paints like acrylics. Cleaning is not very difficult even if a small amount of paint residue is left behind.
If you're using solvent-based paints, which are generally more durable once dry, it's best to deep clean the airbrush at the end of each session, or at least a semi-deep cleaning .
However, water-based paints generally only require a "simple cleaning" at the end of each session, and a "deep cleaning" every few sessions.
The frequency of use of the airbrush :
If you airbrush daily and only use water-based paint in your airbrush. Deep cleaning once a week is usually sufficient.
However, if you only airbrush one day a week, or only once in a while, then it is better to deep clean the airbrush more often.
It is absolutely necessary to avoid leaving paint residues in the airbrush for a long time.
Unexpected events such as clogs or the like can potentially trigger the need for a "deep cleaning" in order to return the airbrush to good working order.
If you start to feel the airbrush misbehaving, for example: you find it is spitting out bits of paint instead of spraying them. Or you just find the airbrush not spraying at all, start with "simple cleaning" first.
If you find that your problem persists then do a "deep cleaning".
90% of the problems people have with an airbrush are due to a dirty airbrush . So by thoroughly cleaning your airbrush, you have a high chance of solving any problems you are having.
Ultimately, the interval you choose to clean your airbrush will depend on the factors listed above. Since there are a wide variety of paints to use and everyone uses the airbrush in a different way, it's hard to say what the exact range is for a "simple clean" or a "deep clean". of your airbrush.
But with all the valuable information we've shared above, you'll be able to decide on a good cleaning schedule that works for you and your airbrushing habits.
Also, as time goes on, and you become familiar with the paint you're using, you'll be able to precisely reduce your cleaning intervals .